|
|
Canal Boating - Personal Diary
The Ryan's Big OE 8 May 18 June 2001
Bourgogne (Burgundy) Canal - France
Monday 14 May 2001
We check in at Waterloo for the Eurostar Chunnel train to Paris by 8.25am. by 8.35 and the train seems about a third full.
The Eurostar is great 3 hours to Paris with about 20 minutes of that under the sea. Travel time will drop to 2.5 hours once the Brits upgrade their tracks to handle the speed. However heavy rains and flooding in France means speeds are restricted and we arrive at the Gare du Nord (North Station) 20 minutes late which means we will be an hour later getting to our canal boat
We make our way from Gare du Nord via the Metro to Gare de Lyon and eventually meet up with our Wellington friends and canal boat companions Bob and Ann. I had underestimated how huge Gare de Lyon would be and our rendevous point is not easy to find. What a relief to shed my heavy backpack if it wasn't for luggage, travel could be enjoyable! Bob and Ann had bought our tickets for us
The French have an excellent railway system it's well run, fast, clean and the preferred means of travel a complete contrast to the UK and its not privatised!! The French are not into privatising every conceivable government operation will they ultimately be convinced of the error of their ways or is it just possible that being government run is not necessarily a bad thing? Anyway we leave at 3.56pm and an hour and half later are in Joigny (Shoy-nee) and a 5 minute cab ride to Locaboat Plaisance headquarters
Excitement and anticipation is building we complete the paperwork just like renting a car and then we begin our week cruising the French countryside. Some background info:
As the Yonne has also been in flood and is still running very high, our boat has been moved upstream to the start of the Canal du Bourgogne Burgundy Canal). We are taken by taxi about 11kms to Migennes to board our boat. Its OK for us to go on the Bourgogne and all being well by Thursday the Yonne will have dropped sufficiently for us to cruise back up to Joigny.
There are about 4 other groups in the process of boarding their boats, receiving tuition etc and its about 7.00pm before we get our turn with the technician. Margaret and Ann get to the local supermarché just before it closes and Bob and Keith undergo canal boat driver and boat maintenance training. The trainer speaks quite slowly as his English is not perfect and that helps us to absorb what he's telling us it all sounds straightforward! We do a 5 minute practice circuit of the wharf area and tie up 200 metres upstream in the canal proper. The rest of the crew return from the shops and we are on our own!
We have soup and mains knocked up quickly by our 2 gorgeous resident cooks and then get our cabins sorted out. Bob and Keith then give Ann and Margaret toilet use training "it all goes into the canal so go easy on the toilet paper, when you've had a successful visit, throw this switch, pump until all clear, and then do 10 more pumps"!! Gas heating and cooking, 12 volt fridge and lights, 600 litre water tank, diesel for 3 weeks so we should be fine. So ends another full day!
Tuesday 15 May 2001
Wake to a misty morning seems to be common in Migennes beautiful calm spot and it would also be tranquil except for the busy railway line next to the canal. I'm first up do a bit of exploring on the bike before the others surface. Poached eggs, toasted bread over the gas ring, cereal, fruit etc we will do just fine food wise. We expect to self cater breakfasts and lunch and have most evening meals in restaurants.
By 8.15 we are chomping at the bit to be on our way. The set routine before heading off includes:
A must have is the Waterways Guide we bought our copy at the office last night. This is in French, English, German and details everything the boatie needs to know. Our edition (Book 3) covers the Bourgogne (of course) plus the Saone River and 2-3 others. I'm surprised they don't supply a copy with each boat but probably they would get damaged and written on.
First lock is about 1km away - I had previously biked there to suss out the lock and had communicated in sign language to the lock keeper that we would be there about 8.30am. This lock uses electric motors to open and close the gates so no work for us we gingerly enter the lock and within about 10 minutes we have risen the 3-4 metres and are on our way. We subsequently learn that this is the only electric lock we will experience.
Absolutely calm with the canal like a millpond and providing we stick to the speed limit of 6-8kph we don't create much wash. The canal runs straight as a die and I wonder if this will be boring but that is not the case at all. The busy railway line runs alongside the canal at this part but later we are in more tranquil surroundings.
Having done one lock, our confidence grows and its 6km before the next lock which is a manual one so Bob helps the lock keeper wind the handles. Whilst every lock has a lock keeper (in most cases living in the adjacent picturesque house), and some boaties don't bother to help, we find the lock keepers appreciate the help as it halves their workload.
At each lock Margaret and Ann hold the bow and stern ropes to keep the boat nice and close to the lock wall whilst Bob or Keith are driving or helping the lock keeper we soon get into a routine. Its all fairly logical but one needs to be careful we learn later of an accident one boatie suffered this week.
We all have a turn at driving but Margaret and Ann decide not to tackle driving in and out of locks! The locks are 5.2m wide and our boat is just on 4m so there isn't too much leeway. Bob and Keith become more skilful at entering and leaving the locks. Bob gives us a bit of a scare when he clips the corner of one lock and incurs the wrath of the lock keeper but we don't understand his French so the lecture is wasted on us but we understand the gist of it!!
One of the hardest things is keeping the boat in a holding position while waiting to enter a lock as the current has other ideas. At one point the boat does a full 180 turn and I have a heck of a job to get it facing back the right way but Bob also had similar troubles so people in glass houses cannot throw stones! I eventually get on top of this problem!
The locks are open from 8.00am to 7.00pm with the lock keepers having a half hour lunch break so we adjust our arrival and departure times to suit. We find it relaxing to tie up for lunch and perhaps link it in with exploring a village
Back to our first day on the water and just after our second lock we explore our first village Brienon-sur-Armancon. A visit to the good supermarché near the jetty and then to a shop to check out fishing licences, a visit to the old church, a wander past some of the older buildings that survived fires in the 17th and 18th centuries, etc
We are enjoying greeting everyone "Bonjour Monsieur" or "Bonjour Madame" and notice how warm and friendly the locals are. The French are very strong on such manners and think foreigners are rude if they don't participate. We have some fun experiences doing our "Bonjour" thing as the other person is not always French
Trying to get Bob's fishing licence is fun the lady indicates she understands and proceeds to try and sell us fishing equipment Non, Non!! So she gets one of the bar patrons to come over but even his English is marginal we eventually learn that the word is "Authorite" but he convinces us it isn't worth getting a licence and to just take a chance!
In the afternoon we explore Saint Florentin built around 2 rivers it has a more cared for feel to it than Brienon, with flower boxes on the bridge, nice parks and walkways. The focal point is the church built between 1500 and 1614 with beautiful stained glass windows. The lady in the Tourist Office offers us the key so we go and have a browse around. Tried several shops to get a battery for the camera and get one at the Tabac these seem to sell everything. Everyone is so helpful we are impressed with the locals.
Get our first French cash from a St Florentin ATM its so easy but there will be a day of reckoning when we get home!
Underway again with our goal being Flogny-la-Chappelle a beautiful sunny spot and a great place to relax with a wine and a beer and contemplate our first day's boating. Bob gives the local red wine a surprisingly good rating considering it was the equivalent of NZ$2.50 a bottle ($US1)!!
About 4 other boats are moored with us in the port these canal ports are just a widened area of the canal where a dozen or so boats can tie up. There are fresh water taps for boaties to fill their tanks and also power points for those who want to plug in. Some ports also have a diesel pump.
We wander off to find a restaurant the town turns out to be smaller than expected and only has 3 eating places we choose Hotel Restaurant du Marche. Our host is huge one of the largest men I've seen his overhanging belly clearly protecting all his private parts, and then we see his wife (?) who is also large!
"Parlez-vous Anglais? - Non" so with Ann's trusty Berlitz phrase book we try and sort out our order. After much discussion and laughter, this beautiful English voice from the next table says "Perhaps I could help". This is Anne, driving back to England after visiting her daughter in southern France decisions are quickly made. I choose the fixed price Plat du jour being the meal of the day which turns out to be a pasta dish but it comes with an entree, desert and a small carafe (2 glasses) of wine
Anne is interested in our boating adventure and what our Penichette is like so she walks back to our "bateau" with us for a quick nosey a delightful lady. Surprising how much cooler it is at 10.00pm as we walk back and I'm sorry I don't have a jacket
So ends a very interesting day we are quite shattered but looking forward to tomorrow
Wednesday 16 May 2001
I'm up real early and catch up on my notes and some reading its great having a separate "living room" so night owls don't bother the others. The boat is ideal for 4 but could sleep 6 by making up bunks but that would mean every room being used for sleeping. There is separate gas heating for the galley/living room.
After another "team breakfast" ie we all help each other toast, poached eggs etc Bob and I do a quick bike foray around the village and find that parts of it are quite new with very nice homes. Many of the houses in these river and canal towns will be weekenders for wealthy Parisians
On our way about 8.30 glorious sunny clear morning and interesting countryside. Much of the canal is tree lined but today there are lots of gaps with views of the farms and villages this is the life one could easily spend months boating all over Europe as the canal systems all link up. The Burgundy region alone has 1200km of canals and rivers with 250+ houseboats for hire plus about 6000km of walk-ways and cycle-ways.
The Dannemonie lock-keeper speaks very good English so I quiz her about lots of things. Lock-keepers are an elite group seems to be a life-time appointment they work from March to November and are not allowed to take on other paid employment during their break. Many of them sell souvenirs, wine, T-shirts, vegetables etc to supplement their income. Most of them take great pride in their lock and the accompanying house. I think casual boaties pay 10FF (French francs) or so per lock and port fees of 40-50FF a night but all our fees are included in our hire.
First stop for the day is Tonnerre has a huge supermarket near the canal on the "new" side of the town. We explore part of the old town with its Fosse Dionne being a circular stone lined pool and washing area fed by a large spring. A very interesting town with lots of old buildings the old hospital built in 1293.
We browse the local vegetable and meat market maybe more fruit will get some of us functioning normally? Bob has this great desire to buy sausages so guess what's for dinner tonight.
We nearly lose some groceries into the canal when Margaret and Bob return from their cycle jaunt to the supermarche pays to use the gangplank for boarding!!
An enjoyable interlude at Tonnerre but we must keep moving. Bob and I are generally sharing the driving as its good to have time off we both do the occasional cycle or walk along the pathways beside the canal between locks. Some locks are quite close together but normally in this area there is one every 4-5km.
Our goal today is to reach Tanlay and see its 15th century chateau and we arrive about 4.00pm. Margaret and I bike up to the chateau to check out tours and later Ann and us do the 5.15 tour a very interesting place despite it appearing to need a tidy-up. Used as a home until just a few years ago and filled with amazing furniture and works of art etc. Our guide only speaks French but the English transcript she gave us helps, as did the French speaking American lady translating for her husband.
Back at the port we provide support and comfort to a German lady with arm and chin injuries and needing somewhere to sit while she and her friend wait for their boat to arrive. Earlier in the day she had apparently fallen over the side of their boat onto the wharf and broke her arm and had just returned from the hospital. They use Bob's cell-phone to make contact with their boat which arrives soon after.
Dinner at home tonight we look after ourselves well except that Bob's sausages turn out to be rather spicy and rather full of fat. We enjoy a very nice bottle of wine courtesy of our German neighbours. A nice relaxing evening.
Maybe it's the sausages but I have my first successful movement since Monday maybe the bread and cheese was gumming me up!! Unfortunately Margaret is having the opposite problem so its good having our own en suite and knowing that during the day we are only minutes away from good clean toilet facilities.
So ends another full day. I'm amazed at how busy we are but its fun we had brought cards, crib board, books etc in anticipation of having lots of time to socialise and relax!!
Thursday 17 May 2001
Very heavy rain overnight but all clear this morning. I do an early morning bike ride around the town and video some of the area intended to film the chateau grounds but gates all closed
We had decided yesterday to not go any further upstream so today we will head back to Joigny some Canadians tell us the Yonne river is still closed to canal boats but we will see what happens tomorrow. So after a leisurely start we head downstream in some ways its great doing an "out and back" tour as we know how long it will take to get back and can schedule some sightseeing stops.
Our first "down" lock is interesting, as we have to hold back until an oncoming boat clears the lock. Yours truly has trouble holding the boat steady and we end up doing an unplanned 360 turn most annoying another couple of weeks and I will get the hang of it!
First goal for today is Tonnerre and we arrive about 11.30 we tie up in the large port area between the town's southern and northern locks. A leisurely stroll around the new part of the town and an interesting time at the huge supermarché comparing prices with NZ, deciding on a $NZ2 ($US0.80) bottle of wine or to really splash out on a $NZ3 ($US1.30) one, treats for lunch etc. Also chatted with some Americans while their huge hotel boat comes through the lock their boat only has about 2 inches to spare on each side. We've seen 2-3 hotel boats fully catered luxury cruises with side trips to various points of interest. About 25 guests on this boat also chatted with one of the crew a Londoner who says he loves the life.
Its interesting re-visiting familiar locks we note some of the lock-keepers have changed seems that in some cases husbands/wives share the role. The attractive younger woman at Ascot lock unfortunately doesn't speak any English but my friend at Dannemoine does and she explains about all the dead fish we have been seeing in the canal. Apparently the large hotel boats kill lots of fish as they go through the locks, but we are not so sure. At one lock Bob has a great chat with friendly Patrice who runs his own web site and is very helpful. We find the lock-keepers really appreciate us helping even tho' they don't often say so. We note that some of the boaties tip the lock-keepers but its our understanding all fees have been paid.
And speaking of fishing while we have gone off the idea of eating the fish, we are amazed at the number of locals fishing from the banks of the canal. I learn later that the French often joke about there being more fishers than fish!!
We decide to tie up just north of Dannemoine and go exploring. The lock-keeper didn't seem to think there was much to see but we found the visit extremely interesting. First stop is a large rambling factory type complex we follow the signs saying "Sculpture" and find ourselves looking in barns with cattle feeding, passing a sawmill, and then watching some stonemasons at work. The young mason comes over and explains where they get the stone from and what they do etc he had been to Australia and hopes to come to NZ one day. Then around the corner and an interesting interlude with the Belgian sculptor who set up his studio here about 2 years ago a fascinating character. He has limited English but we communicate.
Then we walk about 500m away from the canal to the village of Vezinnes being a much older settlement than its neighbour Dannemoine. The local spring, washing area (not used these days) and pump are obviously a focal point. We contemplate staying for dinner at the delightful restaurant but we need to press on. On the way back to the canal, we see several trout in the stream feeding into the river and Bob says "should have brought my line". We wander on around the other side of Dannemoine, inspect its derelict washing house landmark, get ice creams from the Tabac etc.
Back to the boat and on our way or so we think! The water level must have dropped slightly during the 2 hours we were away and we are stuck fast on the rocks at the edge of the canal the lesson is that one should not pull the boat in so close allow a little movement. We push and pull and go forward/reverse but to no avail. A passer-by walking his dog doesn't have any solutions I go back to my friendly lock-keeper and she says "would you like me to release some water" yes please / merci beacoup! A surge of water from the lock is enough to free us up and off we go!
Nearing our next lock Bob pulls in to let me off so I can run on ahead and help the lock-keeper and, get some video footage of us going through a down lock. And would you believe it we get stuck this is all within sight of the lock-keeper who is waving his arms about and trying to tell us something. Fortunately after a few minutes we get clear. We then see the "no mooring" signs along that part of the bank and realise what the lock-keeper was trying to say. We make a rather sheepish passage through the lock!
Our "Waterways Guide" says the next town Tronchoy has a restaurant so after tying up with ample clearance Bob and Ann check out the restaurant and find its only open weekends. So onto to Flogny back to where we had spent Tuesday night.
We meet up again with our German acquaintances they are enjoying a game of boules (petanque to us) with even the broken arm lady fully participating. There seems to be a boules pitch at most of the moorings. We enjoy a beer / wine etc as we wind down after the day's events
I take the opportunity to review the supermarket docket and wonder out loud about why we bought 3 tampons great debate follows as Margaret and Ann deny they had bought any at all! We were sure we had been charged for someone else's purchase until later when about to use one of the new pot-scrubs, I find they are called "tampons" given my very limited grasp of French, the packet refers to the double action texture being very effective. We subsequently learn that the other sort are also called tampons so when in France be careful to use the right product for the job!
We select a different restaurant to the fat man's one and embark on another fun meal. I go for the Plat du Jour again and the other 3 have a steak. I get the full works starting with ham du jambon (thinly sliced smoked bacon on bread, veal with mushrooms and sauteed potatoes, a dessert and then the lady lets me choose some cheese from the board she brought round. And of course a small carafe of wine. I was able to share some of my meal with the others as too much for one. The steak meal came with sauteed potatoes and chopped onions and I think Bob had a dessert.
Bob often wore his "NZ" cap and mentions "All Blacks" to the locals who generally respond enthusiastically and that works this time in the restaurant. We also get a short French language lesson from the ?husband / waiter when Margaret or Ann say "merci" (thank you) and he makes quite a thing out of it saying the word is pronounced "meerse-cy". A valid correction he obviously wanted to put these kiwis on the right track.
Back to the boat by 9.00pm anyone for a game of crib or cards? But even that hour was too late for some pikers funny how we are so sleepy not surprising as we've had a full day. The best part of the day for me was the unexpected contacts with the locals
Friday 18 May 2001
A leisurely start about 9.00am Cap'n Bob at the helm. Plan is to lunch at St Florentin and onto Migennes for the night. We learn from the Germans who had been speaking with a Swiss boatie, that the Yonne is open from Migennes to Joigny good news for us.
Easy travelling but it seems that going downstream one has to often wait for upstream boats to clear the locks this means struggling to keep the boat in a holding position. From time to time we do what a lot of others do and pull to the side and have a crew member simply hold both ropes. That person can then walk on ahead to help the lock-keeper.
We have a short walk around St Florentin its good coming back to a place a second time. Most places are closed for the long lunch break but we get some bread sticks. Margaret and I take a short walk. Bob and Ann are not far behind, and we are just on board when torrential run hits the boat oh its good to be snug and dry when its raining!
Lunch consists of the last of Bob's sausages we are please to get rid of them! Margaret and I did some shopping at Brienon supermarché is right next to the canal and Bob and Ann do some exploring. I then do a short bike tour of the town seeing some of the newer parts plus the town's famous washing house built 1792.
An easy run to Migennes and a good mooring spot near where we had picked up the boat from on Monday. I bike around the town centre and suss out some restaurants for dinner. We opt for a Vietnamese very good food although the meals were smaller than previous nights. Margaret did not eat much but the table vultures helped her out!
Pleasant saunter back to the boat Migennes is probably about the size of Levin. The shopping area and mall is more like what we are used to compared with the village style / narrow streets we saw at the villages further upstream
As usual we "Bonjour" all passers by. Just after passing a group of 4 on the wharf, Bob said to us "they probably speak English" and one of the group calls out "we sure do mate". We chat with these Aussies who pick up their boat tomorrow and are keen to know what the canal is like
Later we chat with another 2 couples out strolling 1 couple is French and the other American but the wife was originally from France and they are holidaying with her school friends.
Saturday 19 May 2001
We were sorry to be back so close to the Migennes railway station last night but as it turned out I had a great sleep and only heard 2 trains Ann says there were several!
A foggy morning must be Migennes. A relaxing morning Bob and Ann go off exploring and to see the beautiful church but it is unfortunately closed. Margaret and I catch up with them later in the town centre. Locals are all out in force as there is a very colourful "children of the world" parade underway kids all in different national dress.
I also visit the Tourist Office have been impressed with these as there is always someone who speaks some English and some material is in English. The natives are very friendly which is contrary to what some people say about the French but we have always found if one makes an attempt to speak French, the response is warm and friendly.
And so we say farewell to the Bourdogne Canal the last lock at the edge of the town is the deepest we have had (possibly 9-10m) and we emerge out into the Yonne river. River travel is very different to the canal the river is still in flood albeit lower than it has been and is running very fast. We turn left and go upstream for maybe 3-4kms but we feel uncomfortable being in such a current. Also our Waterways Guide only covers the first few kms of this part of the Yonne so we turn back and head towards Joigny.
We pass through 2 locks on the river these are huge compared with the canal ones as they cater for commercial barges. We feel sort of lost in our little boat in the first lock which barely drops us a metre but the next one is 2-3m. The river locks are "driven" by a lock-keeper sitting in a control room so operational efficiency replaces the charm and personality of the canal ones.
We certainly have to pay attention passing under bridges especially with the river running so fast. The guide book shows the recommended path to take to avoid sandbars etc. We see later how one boat clipped a bridge pillar.
We arrive at Locaboat Plaisance marina and this tests my limited boating skills this is all new stuff and its so hard controlling the boat against the current and manoeuvring into a berth. I underestimate and we clip the bow of a moored boat but fortunately no damage and we manage to tie up. The technician who trained us at Migennes on Monday is on duty and says a better spot will become available later and I'm pleased when he says he will move the boat for us! When he does move us I get some satisfaction out of seeing that even he takes 2 goes to get us into the new berth!!
We can now relax and enjoy lunch having arrived at our final resting place. The plan is to spend time exploring this delightful town, have a nice celebratory meal tonight, farewell Bob and Ann tomorrow afternoon as they have to be in Paris to join their coach tour, and we will travel to Paris Monday morning
We get info from the Tourist Office and do the self guided walking tour through part of the old town. The old part is quite steep we visit St Thibaults church, the St Jean church, and see the nearby Gondi Chateau (not open to visitors) where St Vincent de Paul once taught. Then to St André where there is an arts and craft display. We see parts of the old city wall 10th century but the rest of the town is from after the devastating fire of 1530
We choose the nearby "Hotel Restaurant" for dinner an upmarket place compared with what we have been to so far and its all very nice. But personally I enjoyed the village café style more than this one. Another new experience one of the patrons has her dog with her and feeds it during her meal. Apparently some restaurants are quite happy for dogs to be included. And talking of dogs, the hotel yard included a fenced off area with a bunch of beautiful Samoyed type dogs and pups so it seems the hotel has some affinity with dogs!
On way home from dinner we "bonjoured" a couple and when we asked "parlez-vous anglais", he replied "just a little" and it turns out they are English his sense of humour. They come to France a lot and we learn a little more about eating places etc
Sunday 20 May 2001
We just have enough hot water left for showers this morning we have not run the engine since noon yesterday hence no hot water. Bob and I wash down the boat we are of course expected to return the boat in a clean and tidy condition so we do our bit. We see teams of cleaners working on each boat once it is handed back they do a very thorough job.
I chat with the Locaboat man on duty today it turns out he is from their Somme base where we would have been if it wasn't for the flooding. He tells me they had trucked 3 boats down to Joigny. He comes originally from the Bordeaux area is also a rugby fan and hopes to come to NZ one day.
We explore part of the town on our side of the river food for lunch etc. Bob and I check out the train times and we organise a taxi to come at 11.45 to take Bob and Ann to the station. Once Bob and Ann go off to the station, Margaret and I surprise them by cycling to the station for one last farewell.
Quiet afternoon now that we are on our own I'm not saying Bob and Ann were noisy but when there are 4 and then suddenly there is just 2, then its different. We could not have wished for better companions for the week we all got on so well and I'm sure the 4 of us would do this again next week if we could. I explored some more of Joigny by bike and sussed out some places for dinner.
Monday 21 May 2001
We have the boat all spic and span for the sign-off well before the 9.00am deadline. The only thing to pay is the diesel calculated from the number of hours on the engine clock. One of the staff runs us to the station in plenty of time for the 8.37 train to Paris and there ends a most enjoyable week
Some facts and figures from the week we travelled 116km, through 22 canal locks twice so 44, 2 river locks, self catered breakfasts and lunch and 2 dinners, 5 dinners at restaurants, and cost for the week excluding food was about NZ$2000 for each couple. There may well be cheaper hire options but we preferred to be dealing with an established supplier. The critical test is would we do it again Yes Yes!
Lessons for next time include:
take a flag from your country
take a starter kitchen pack eg salt, pepper, sugar, coffee, tea, gas lighter
take a pot scrub, dish washing liquid, tea towel
take a suitable pair of gloves light garden gloves not suitable for rope handling
have some constipation / diarrhoea tablets in your bag
Locaboat Plaisance seems a good company. Some observations and comments:
The Penichette definitely seems very suitable we especially liked the safety railing and being able to walk around the boat in comparative safety.
Locaboat should provide a basic kitchen pack they could learn from what NZ motels provide.
I'm also surprised we had to bring our own towels these are bulky items
Locaboat would also do a good trade in souvenir models or jigsaws of the boats and some info on fishing licences would be helpful
Off to Paris the train down made 2 stops but our one to Paris makes 10 or more so it takes a couple of hours but we are in no hurry. We make our way on the Metro to our hotel in Paris without any problems apart from me having trouble coping with the overly heavy backpack. So ends this canalian adventure
Rental Properties
Paris Hotels
Canal Boating
Escorted Tours
Personalised Itineraries
Who am I?
What's the Weather?
Contact Us
| Page design by CTi Communications Ltd. |